![\"La](\"http:\/\/www.nationalturk.com\/tr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/la_higuera_bolivya-e1382339606849-610x353.jpg\" "\\"\\"")
<\/p>\n<\/p>\n
H\u00fcrriyet gazetesinden G\u00fcrcan Elbek’in izlenimleri;<\/p>\n
\u201cKi\u015filer \u00f6l\u00fcr, devrim s\u00fcrer\u201d demi\u015fti son nefesinde. Yakaland\u0131\u011f\u0131, i\u015fkence sonras\u0131 kur\u015funland\u0131\u011f\u0131 La Higuera k\u00f6y\u00fc bug\u00fcn d\u00fcnyan\u0131n d\u00f6rt bir yan\u0131ndan Che hayranlar\u0131n\u0131 a\u011f\u0131rl\u0131yor.<\/p>\n
La Higuera… \u0130spanyolca \u201c\u0130ncir A\u011fac\u0131\u201d demek. Da\u011flar\u0131n aras\u0131nda ufac\u0131k bir k\u00f6y. K\u0131rsal bir b\u00f6lge yani. Yolculuk olduk\u00e7a zahmetli. G\u00fcn batarken ula\u015ft\u0131m. Geceyi, ta\u015f k\u00f6y evinden d\u00fczenlenmi\u015f \u201cEl Telegrafista (Telgraf\u00e7\u0131)\u201dda ge\u00e7irdim.
\nSabah, k\u00f6yl\u00fclerden bile erken kalk\u0131p meydan\u0131 dola\u015ft\u0131m. Ortada Che\u2019nin puro tutan eli havada bir bronz heykeli kar\u015f\u0131l\u0131yor sizi. K\u00f6y evlerinin beyaz badanal\u0131 duvarlar\u0131na Che resimleri \u00e7izilmi\u015f, s\u00f6zleri yaz\u0131lm\u0131\u015f: \u201c\u015eu an, gelece\u011fimizin m\u00fccadelesidir\u201d, \u201cKi\u015filer \u00f6l\u00fcr, fikirler asla!\u201d 20 metre sonra Che\u2019nin metalik renkteki b\u00fcst\u00fc. \u0130leride \u00f6ld\u00fcr\u00fcld\u00fc\u011f\u00fc ilkokul. Ve Che\u2019nin son ayak izlerinde rehberli bir tur…<\/p>\n
Rehberim David ile k\u00f6y\u00fcn Vallegrande \u00e7\u0131k\u0131\u015f\u0131na do\u011fru y\u00fcr\u00fcyoruz. 1967 Eyl\u00fcl\u00fc\u2019nde k\u00f6yde bu yol bile yokmu\u015f. \u201cChe\u2019nin Yolu, Higuera\u2019ya Ho\u015fgeldiniz\u201d yazan levhan\u0131n \u00f6n\u00fcnde an\u0131 foto\u011fraf\u0131… \u201cCoco, Miguel, Julio\u201d an\u0131s\u0131na dikilmi\u015f bir an\u0131t… 27 Eyl\u00fcl 1967\u2019de k\u00f6ydeki koka yapra\u011f\u0131 sat\u0131c\u0131s\u0131n\u0131n tav\u0131rlar\u0131ndan \u015f\u00fcphelenen Che \u00fc\u00e7 arkada\u015f\u0131na \u201cBir gariplik var, gidip bak\u0131n\u201d demi\u015f. \u00dc\u00e7 arkada\u015f\u0131n\u0131n vuruldu\u011fu yere k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir an\u0131t dikilmi\u015f.<\/p>\n
O g\u00fcn\u00fc d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fcyorum: Vurulu\u015flar\u0131, yere d\u00fc\u015f\u00fc\u015fleri, yank\u0131lanan sesler, Che\u2019nin kanyona do\u011fru ka\u00e7mas\u0131, silah sesleri ve barut kokusu… \u0130lerden, soldan a\u015fa\u011f\u0131 do\u011fru bir patikaya iniyoruz. Kanyonlara do\u011fru… David, hep heyecanla anlat\u0131yor. A\u015fa\u011f\u0131ya do\u011fru uzanan patika o zamanki k\u00f6y\u00fcn tek yolu. Az sonra birinin vuruldu\u011fu yere geliyoruz. Briketler \u00fczerine d\u00f6rt seramik karo konulmu\u015f. Ne isim var ne de bir yaz\u0131. Di\u011fer ikisi i\u00e7in bir i\u015faret yok. K\u00f6y\u00fc hakim noktadan g\u00f6ren b\u00f6lgeye geliyoruz. David, ileriyi, k\u00f6y\u00fcn \u00fczerinde bir yerleri i\u015faret ediyor. Anlat\u0131yor. \u201cO g\u00fcn, burada \u015fenlik vard\u0131. Che ve baz\u0131 arkada\u015flar\u0131 oradayd\u0131. \u015eenli\u011fin sonuna do\u011fru \u015fu patikadan k\u00f6ye indiler. Che ast\u0131m hastas\u0131yd\u0131 ve ila\u00e7 i\u00e7in Vallegrande\u2019ye ula\u015fmas\u0131 gerekiyordu. El Telegrafista\u2019n\u0131n \u00f6n\u00fcne geldiklerinde koka sat\u0131c\u0131s\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6rd\u00fcler. Telgraf\u00e7\u0131dan Vallegrande\u2019e mesaj g\u00f6nderecekti. Che, koka sat\u0131c\u0131s\u0131n\u0131 tela\u015fl\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcnce \u00fc\u00e7 arkada\u015f\u0131n\u0131 etraf\u0131 kontrole yollad\u0131. \u0130\u00e7eri girdi\u011fi anda silah seslerini duydu ve hemen k\u00f6y\u00fcn alt\u0131ndaki vadiye ko\u015fmaya ba\u015flad\u0131. Ama bir d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn! 17 gerillaya kar\u015f\u0131 1800 ki\u015filik Bolivya birli\u011fi. Buna ra\u011fmen Che\u2019yi 11 g\u00fcn yakalayamad\u0131lar.\u201d<\/p>\n
Rehberim David \u201c\u00d6nce seni Che\u2019nin vuruldu\u011funu s\u00f6yledikleri, turistik dedi\u011fimiz yere g\u00f6t\u00fcrece\u011fim. Ard\u0131ndan bize g\u00f6re as\u0131l m\u00fccadelenin ge\u00e7ti\u011fi daha a\u015fa\u011f\u0131da k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir kanyonun i\u00e7ine gidece\u011fiz\u201d diyor. El Telegrafista\u2019n\u0131n sahibi olan babas\u0131, Che\u2019nin hayat\u0131n\u0131 ara\u015ft\u0131rmaya epey zaman ay\u0131rm\u0131\u015f. Tarladaki boyumuzca m\u0131s\u0131rlar\u0131n aras\u0131ndan ge\u00e7ip turistik noktaya geliyoruz. Buras\u0131 anma merkezine d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015ft\u00fcr\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f, betonlar d\u00f6k\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f, ortas\u0131nda yerde bir y\u0131ld\u0131z fig\u00fcr\u00fc olan k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir alan. Sloganlar yaz\u0131lm\u0131\u015f: \u201cZafere Kadar\u201d, \u201cDaima\u201d, \u201cAnavatan veya \u00f6l\u00fcm\u201d. Sonuncusu Atat\u00fcrk\u2019\u00fcn \u201cYa istiklal ya da \u00f6l\u00fcm\u201d parolas\u0131n\u0131 hat\u0131rlat\u0131yor.<\/p>\n
Uzun sarma\u015f\u0131klar\u0131n yan\u0131ndan biraz daha a\u015fa\u011f\u0131daki vadiye iniyoruz. Aya\u011f\u0131m burkulmas\u0131n diye dikkatle indi\u011fim bu yerlerde kim bilir ne ko\u015fu\u015fmacalar ya\u015fand\u0131. Bug\u00fcnse sakin ve g\u00fcne\u015fli g\u00fcnde ku\u015f c\u0131v\u0131lt\u0131lar\u0131. Siyah ve portakal renkli kelebekler, 46 y\u0131l \u00f6nceye inat taklalar atarak sevi\u015fiyorlar \u00f6n\u00fcm\u00fczde. Yine de 8 Ekim 1967\u2019deki hengameyi, pusular\u0131, \u00f6l\u00fcm ve kal\u0131m\u0131 hissediyorsunuz. Biraz daha a\u015fa\u011f\u0131 ilerledi\u011fimizde David, bir kayan\u0131n arkas\u0131na ge\u00e7iyor. T\u00fcfekle ate\u015f ediyormu\u015f gibi yap\u0131yor. Heyecanla anlat\u0131yor: \u201cBuradayd\u0131. Bu \u015fekilde duruyor ve ate\u015f ediyordu. \u0130lk isabeti kayan\u0131n d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda kalan sa\u011f aya\u011f\u0131ndan ald\u0131. T\u00fcfe\u011fi de kullan\u0131lamaz hale geldi.\u201d Kayadaki mermi izlerini g\u00f6steriyor. \u201cYayl\u0131m ate\u015fi a\u00e7\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131, i\u015fte izleri.\u201d Ya\u015fanan can pazar\u0131n\u0131, \u00f6l\u00fcmc\u00fcl m\u00fccadeleyi g\u00f6z\u00fcn\u00fcz\u00fcn \u00f6n\u00fcne getirebiliyorsunuz. Yaralanan Che\u2019yi, arkada\u015f\u0131 Willy s\u0131rt\u0131nda ta\u015f\u0131m\u0131\u015f, Chino onlar\u0131 korumu\u015f. \u00d6nce a\u015fa\u011f\u0131 ilerliyorlar. Askerlerle kar\u015f\u0131la\u015f\u0131p ayn\u0131 yoldan geriye \u00e7ekiliyorlar. La Higuera istikametinde kanyondan \u00e7\u0131k\u0131p yukar\u0131 y\u00f6nelince askerlerle burun buruna geliyorlar. Che bu anda, \u201cBen Ernesto Che Guevara\u2019y\u0131m. Dirim, \u00f6l\u00fcmden \u00e7ok i\u015finize yarar. Ate\u015f etmeyin\u201d diyor.<\/p>\n
Museo Comunal \u201cLa Higuera\u201d, La Higuera K\u00f6y \u0130lkokulcu\u011fu… \u0130spanyolca k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fcltme ekiyle aynen b\u00f6yle yaz\u0131yor kap\u0131da. Yan\u0131ndaki levhada \u015fu a\u00e7\u0131klama var: \u201cChe, Willy ve Chino, 9 Ekim 1967\u2019de \u00f6ld\u00fcr\u00fclmeden \u00f6nce bu okulda tutuldu.\u201d K\u00f6y\u00fcn tek bakkal\u0131, m\u00fcze i\u015fletmecisi kad\u0131na 10 Bolivyano (3 TL) \u00f6deyip girdim. D\u00fcn\u00fcn okulcu\u011fu, bug\u00fcn m\u00fczecik… Giri\u015fteki odan\u0131n sol duvar\u0131na yaslanm\u0131\u015f eski kap\u0131 olaylar\u0131n tan\u0131\u011f\u0131. \u00dczerine y\u0131pranm\u0131\u015f, kanl\u0131, temsili bir \u00fcniforma yerle\u015ftirilmi\u015f. \u0130\u00e7erde muhtelif bayrak ve flamalar, Che\u2019nin Bolivya s\u00fcrecini anlatan panolar, ziyaret\u00e7ilerin k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck ka\u011f\u0131tlara yazd\u0131\u011f\u0131 mesajlar, Che\u2019nin hayat\u0131ndan foto\u011fraflar ve \u00fc\u00e7 k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck okul s\u0131ras\u0131 sergileniyor. Bir panoda \u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fcnden \u00f6ncesi son pozu, sandaletinin, isabet alm\u0131\u015f t\u00fcfe\u011finin, g\u00fcnl\u00fc\u011f\u00fcn\u00fcn 6 ve 7 Ekim tarihli sayfalar\u0131n\u0131n, cesedini Vallegrande\u2019ye g\u00f6t\u00fcren helikopterin foto\u011fraflar\u0131ndan kolaj yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n
\u00d6ld\u00fcr\u00fcld\u00fc\u011f\u00fc yeri sordum. Kap\u0131ya yak\u0131n b\u00f6lgeyi i\u015faret etti kad\u0131n. Bu okulda ya\u015fanan olaylara ili\u015fkin bir \u00e7ok ayr\u0131nt\u0131 anlat\u0131l\u0131yor: Che\u2019nin \u00f6\u011fretmene devrimi anlatma \u00e7abas\u0131, pilotun t\u00fct\u00fcn ikram\u0131, K\u00fcbal\u0131 CIA ajan\u0131yla konu\u015fma, son foto\u011fraf \u00e7ekimi i\u00e7in d\u0131\u015far\u0131 \u00e7\u0131kar\u0131lmas\u0131, sorgucu generalin y\u00fcz\u00fcne t\u00fck\u00fcrmesi… Teti\u011fi \u00e7ekmeye talip olan ki\u015fi \u00e7at\u0131\u015fmada \u00f6ld\u00fcr\u00fclen arkada\u015flar\u0131n\u0131n kiniyle dolu, psikolojisi bozuk, alkolik \u00e7avu\u015f Mario Ter\u00e1n… Ba\u015fbakan Ren\u00e9 Barrientos Ortu\u00f1o\u2019nun emriyle teti\u011fi \u00e7ekmek i\u00e7in odaya girdi\u011finde Che \u201cBiliyorum beni \u00f6ld\u00fcrmeye geldin. \u00d6ld\u00fcrd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcn sadece basit bir adam olacak, devrim sonsuza kadar s\u00fcrecek. Seni korkak\u201d demi\u015f. M-1\u2019den \u00e7\u0131kan 9 kur\u015fun… G\u00f6\u011f\u00fcs ve boyuna… Sonra d\u00fcnyaya yap\u0131lan ilk a\u00e7\u0131klama: \u201cChe, Bolivya ordusuyla silahl\u0131 \u00e7at\u0131\u015fmada ka\u00e7arken \u00f6ld\u00fcr\u00fcld\u00fc!\u201d<\/p>\n
Oysa ger\u00e7ek burada. Art\u0131k herkes biliyor… Elimi k\u0131r\u0131k ta\u015f zeminde gezdiriyorum. O an\u0131 d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fcyorum. \u201cKi\u015filer \u00f6l\u00fcr, fikirler asla…\u201d Oysa ki\u015filer olmaks\u0131z\u0131n fikirler de sonuca ula\u015fm\u0131yor. Che\u2019nin Bolivya\u2019daki son yolculu\u011fu neredeyse bir intihar… 60 ki\u015fiyle devrim ate\u015fini ba\u015flatmak istemi\u015f. Asl\u0131nda \u00f6nemli askeri ba\u015far\u0131lar da kazanm\u0131\u015flar, fakat halk desteklememi\u015f. \u00dcstelik ABD b\u00f6lgeye istihbarat\u00e7\u0131lar\u0131n\u0131, kontrgerilla uzmanlar\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6ndermi\u015f…<\/p>\n
Che ger\u00e7e\u011fi neden g\u00f6remedi, neden durmad\u0131? Belki de g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fc halde \u00fclkeyi terk etmedi.<\/p>\n
Ziyaret\u00e7i defterine bak\u0131l\u0131rsa bu y\u0131l benden \u00f6nce de T\u00fcrkiye\u2019den \u00fc\u00e7 ki\u015fi gelmi\u015f. Biri \u00fclke ad\u0131na T\u00fcrk\u00e7e \u201cK\u00fcrdistan\u201d yazm\u0131\u015f. Ancak g\u00fcn\u00fcn tek ziyaret\u00e7isi benim. Video, foto\u011fraf \u00e7ekip m\u00fczeci-bakkal kad\u0131nla k\u00f6y meydan\u0131na do\u011fru y\u00fcr\u00fcd\u00fck. Sabah geldi\u011fimde hava kapal\u0131yd\u0131. \u015eimdi a\u00e7\u0131k, g\u00fcne\u015fli. B\u00fcst\u00fcn \u00f6n\u00fcnde durup sohbet ediyoruz. \u201c\u00d6rne\u011fin yeni bir g\u00fcn\u00fcn do\u011fu\u015fu\u201d yaz\u0131yor b\u00fcstte. Kad\u0131n\u0131n Che ve ya\u015fananlar hakk\u0131ndaki d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcncelerini soruyorum. Cevap hep ayn\u0131: \u201cBilmiyorum…\u201d K\u00fcba k\u00f6ye iki s\u0131n\u0131fl\u0131 bir ilkokul yapt\u0131rm\u0131\u015f. Bir de doktor odas\u0131. Kap\u0131s\u0131nda \u201cDoktor Ernesto Che Guevara Sa\u011fl\u0131k Oca\u011f\u0131\u201d yaz\u0131yor. \u0130\u00e7inde K\u00fcbal\u0131 doktor g\u00f6rev yap\u0131yor. K\u00f6yde yoksulluk, e\u011fitimsizlik bug\u00fcn de aynen devam ediyor. Tarihin ya\u015fand\u0131\u011f\u0131 bu noktaya, devrimi b\u0131rak\u0131n, ayd\u0131nl\u0131\u011f\u0131n bug\u00fcn dahi gelmedi\u011fini g\u00f6r\u00fcyordum, alay eder gibi parlayan yukar\u0131daki g\u00fcne\u015fin alt\u0131nda… \u0130\u015fte devrimci ki\u015filiklerin ayd\u0131nl\u0131k g\u00fcnleri yarat\u0131rken zaman zaman kendilerini att\u0131klar\u0131 idealizm ve \u00fctopya ate\u015fi bu olsa gerek.<\/p>\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
K\u00fcba devriminin liderlerinden Ernesto Che Guevara’n\u0131n 1967’de Bolivya ordusu taraf\u0131ndan \u00f6ld\u00fcr\u00fcld\u00fc\u011f\u00fc La Higuera k\u00f6y\u00fc d\u00fcnyan\u0131n d\u00f6rt bir yan\u0131ndaki Che hayranlar\u0131n\u0131n ak\u0131n\u0131na u\u011fruyor.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":176885,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[6665,6155,6771,5005,6671],"tags":[8038,7167,48319,14],"class_list":["post-150640","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-dunya","category-gundem","category-latin-amerika","category-manset","category-seyahat","tag-bolivya","tag-che","tag-che-guevara","tag-kuba"],"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.nationalturk.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/150640","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.nationalturk.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.nationalturk.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.nationalturk.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.nationalturk.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=150640"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.nationalturk.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/150640\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.nationalturk.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/176885"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.nationalturk.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=150640"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.nationalturk.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=150640"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.nationalturk.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=150640"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}